Howto adjust the Front Derailleur (FD)

Applies to most 3-chainring derailleur systems.

Make sure your Rear D (RD) is already setup as you will need to access all of your rear gears for this tutorial.

Front Derailleur Components

Front Derailleur

Height Adjustment

The first step is to adjust the derailleur’s height and angle using the positioning clamp that attaches the derailleur to your bike’s frame. This can be a bit tricky, since tightening the clamp’s bolt will set both height and angle at the same time. To make things easier, tighten the clamp so that it is secure, but loose enough to move it around with your hand.

For correct height adjustment, position the bottom of the derailleur cage as close to the largest sprocket teeth as possible, so that it still clears. Manufacturers recommend a 2mm spacing, but this is only meant as a general guide and not a rule. The lower the cage is, the better it will shift. While you’re in this position, take a quick look at the curvature of the large chainring and the outer derailleur cage, to make sure no part of the cage is rubbing on the chainring.
Front Derailer and Chainring

Angle Adjustment

The derailleur angle is set by looking down from above. This can be tricky and requires some patience, as the shape of the derailleur cage is often not straight. You’ll want to imagine a centerline in the middle of the cage, which should line up with the center line of your frame. Once the angle is correct, you can completely tighten the positioning clamp.

Limit Screws

There are two gear limit screws. On older derailleurs the low-gear limit is closest to the frame, but some newer models have reversed the screw’s positioning.

Low Gear Limit

To adjust the low-gear limit, first make sure your chain is shifted to the largest sprocket in the rear, and the smallest sprocket in the front. The low-gear limit stop stops the derailleur from shifting past the smallest chainwheel and throwing the chain onto the bottom bracket shell. If it is too loose, the chain will fall off when you downshift to the small chainring. If it is too tight, it might not shift down at all. Ideally, you want to set up the inner plate so that it barely clears the chain in the lowest gear. However, triple chainrings like this one sometimes require a tiny bit of extra spacing.

High Gear Limit

To adjust the high-gear limit, shift the chain into your highest gear, that is, smallest sprocket in the rear, and the largest sprocket in the front. The high-gear limit prevents the chain from shifting past the largest chainwheel and throwing the chain out into your pedals. Ideally you want the cage to stop just after it clears the chain on the large chainring.

Shifting Adjustments

Now that both limit screws are set up, shift back to the largest sprocket in the rear, and the smallest in the front. Make sure your front shifter is in the lowest gear position, and pull the shift cable to eliminate any extra slack, before tightening the cable bolt.
Shift the front derailleur to the middle gear, and run through the entire range of rear sprockets to make sure the chain does not rub on either side of the front derailleur cage. If it does rub, you can adjust the trim by tweaking the barrel adjuster on your front shift lever. If you have an older friction shifter, often you will have to manually adjust the trim while riding.
This tutorial was based on the most common type of drivetrain, and assumes that you are using the components your derailleur was designed for. If you have a customized set of chainrings and/or derailleurs, you may need to try some different techniques, or even take your bike into a shop for further adjustment.

How to Remove & Install Pedal

Pedal  Basics
This article may come in handy. It has this easy to remember tip on left-hand and right-hand thread. Which spanner/wrench direction to loosen or tighten?
Just remember this:Push  toward the crankarm
To LOOSEN - make sure the spanner/wrench is turned towards the BACK of the bike. This applies to both left and right pedal!
To TIGHTEN - make sure the spanner/wrench is turned towards the FRONT of the bike! This applies to both left and right pedal!


Remove Bike Gear Cassette

IMG_2637

IMG_2631 IMG_2619 IMG_2621

Hand itchy so decided to remove the gear cassette for cleaning and did a little fine adjustment to the hub bearings. Wow, the grease still looks as good as new. For details on how to, here is a good link.

Measuring Chain Wear using a 12-Inch Ruler

Measuring Chain Wear by SheldonBrown
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
  • If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
  • If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
  • If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
  • If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
Summary based on the above Sheldonbrown guide:
Stretch Recommendations
Less than 1/16” (<1.6mm) No need to replace the chain. Chain is fine.
1/16” (1.6mm) Replace NOW!
1/8” (3.2mm)
A bit late but still must replace the chain. Favourite gears already worn. New chain may wear out faster due to worn gears unless you also change the gears.
More than 1/8” (>3.2mm) Too late! New chain will skip on badly worn gears. Need new chain and new gears.

Below is how I measured mine:
1c
0b setting
no stretchb
1.6b
2mmb
3.2b
Remarks: I used a Vernier caliper to estimate the gap (wear).
For quick check, we can use the rivet as a guide. When the 12 inch line is almost touching the edge of the rivet, wear is probably between 1.6 to 2mm, time to replace chain.

Maintenance – Headset & BB Spindle

Hands itchy again. This time out came the Fork. Wiped clean, sprayed GT85  & applied grease to a few areas including the Fork’s steerer and headset bearings. Remember to put some grease on all screw threads before assembly.
Tools used: 5mm Allen key
… walau, realize the Fork is so heavy!
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Saw some rusting on the BB’s spindle. Had to remove the crank (crank-arm) to clean it.
Tools used: 8mm Allen key & Crank Extractor  
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Dump the granny gear?

Vanity or crazy? or really forgot to put back, haha.

Itchy hands, wanted to clean the other side of BB spindle but end up dumping the white elephant front 22T granny. Never need it since day one. May need it if we climb Mt Faber but I guess a 32-32 should be good enough ba. Anyway can always put it back again.

 

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Clean & Lube Your Brake and Derailleur Cables

Kena heavy rain or have you recently ‘hose down’ your bike? Better lube the cables to ensure we continue to enjoy smooth shifting and braking.

Derailleur (Shifting) Cables
  1. With bike on a stand, shift the chain to the ‘biggy’ rear and  ‘biggy’ front ring.

  2. Without pedaling, shift rear gear and front gear down to their smallest. The derailleurs and chain should remain where they are, but your cables should now have some slack.

  3. Pull the cable housing out from the cable stops.1a 1b 2a3

  4. Slide cable housing and wipe off any water on the cable with a clean rag.

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  5. Lube derailleur cables with light oil.

  6. Put the cable housing back into the cable stops and carefully turn the pedals forward.

Brake Cables
  1. Squeeze your brake levers so that the pads are touching the rim.

  2. Hold the brake pads against the rim with one hand.

  3. Pop the cable housing out from the cable stops.

  4. Slide cable housing and wipe off any water on the cables with a clean rag.

  5. Lube brake cables with oil (heavy oil recommended).

  6. Slide housing back, squeeze the brakes again and put the housing back in the cable stops.

  7. Test your brakes to make sure they're safe.